Tasting Central Kenya: From Mtaro Estate to Kensington Calgary

If you are a fan of vibrant, high altitude Kenyan coffee, today is your day. We just pulled a fresh lot off our trusty roaster, and the whole shop is filled with the sweet, juicy aroma of ripe berries. Kenyan coffees hold a special place on our cafe, known for their unmistakable fruit clarity and incredible complexity. Whether you are stopping by for your morning brew or hunting for your next favourite origin to grind at home, this new offering from Central Kenya is something truly memorable.

A Brief History of Kenyan Coffee

Coffee was first brought to Kenya in the late nineteenth century. The earliest official documentation records coffee exports in 1893 to the French missionary island of Réunion, using trees of the classic Bourbon variety that yielded their very first crop in 1896. During the early decades of production under British colonial rule, the resulting harvest was shipped and sold through markets in London.

Everything changed in 1933 when the Coffee Act was passed, establishing the Kenyan Coffee Board and bringing sales back to the country. A year later, in 1934, Kenya introduced its famous auction system, an open bidding process that is still used to buy and sell top tier lots today. By 1935, official grading protocols were established to categorize beans by size and density. If you want to learn more about how screen sizes like AA or AB shape your brewed cup, check out our previous blog post where we break down the entire Kenyan coffee grading system in detail.

The structure of Kenyan farming shifted significantly in the early 1950s with the introduction of the Swynnerton Plan, an agricultural initiative named after an official in the Department of Agriculture. This plan helped establish family run smallholdings that combined subsistence farming with cash crop production. The economic impact was immediate, driving up local income across rural communities. Following national independence in 1963, Kenya continued to build on this foundation and today remains world famous for producing exceptionally clean, high quality coffees.

Inside Mtaro Estate in Juja, Thika

Our latest lot comes directly from Mtaro Estate, situated in the fertile highlands of Central Kenya within the Juja, Thika district, roughly 40 kilometres north of Nairobi. The farm gets its name from mtaro, the Kiswahili word for a hand dug trench that channels essential water across the land.

Sitting at a high altitude of 1,600 metres above sea level, Mtaro Estate yields roughly 260 metric tons of coffee each year across two distinct harvest windows: a main crop from October to December and a second harvest from April to September. The estate employs around 300 workers who hand pick only the fully ripe cherries before they are thoroughly washed and sun dried.

Beyond producing incredible coffee, the farm runs a comprehensive social welfare program for its community:

  • Healthcare & Living: All workers and their families have access to clean drinking water and free medical care at the estate health clinic, with specialized hospital care covered by the farm. Permanent staff are provided with maintained two room homes.
  • Family Welfare: No children under 18 are permitted to work on the farm, and a dedicated education committee ensures all workers' children attend school.
  • Worker Advocacy: An open dialogue culture connects workers, union representatives, and management, alongside an active women's welfare committee advocating for female employees.

Mtaro Estate also minimizes its ecological footprint through responsible land stewardship. Agrochemical use is strictly monitored, wastewater from the washing process is naturally filtered through planted beds, and composted cherry pulp is reused as organic fertilizer. The estate also maintains an active reforestation program and plants cover crops to protect high altitude soil from erosion.

The Cultivar: The Iconic SL28

This specific lot is made up entirely of the famous SL28 variety, screened at a generous size of 17-18. Developed in the 1930s by Scott Agricultural Laboratories in Kenya, SL28 is celebrated across the specialty coffee world for its drought resistance and unmatched cup quality.

When grown in the nutrient rich volcanic soils of Thika, SL28 produces complex sugars that transform during our small five pound roasts into intense blackcurrant sweetness, juicy citrus brightness, and deep floral aromatics. It is widely considered one of the finest coffee cultivars on the planet.

Learn More About Kenyan Coffee Grading

Exploring the Flavour Profile

When we dropped this batch of Mtaro Estate green beans into our roaster, we kept a close watch on the heat to preserve all of its natural berry character. Here is what you can look forward to tasting:

  • Primary Notes: Vibrant blackcurrant, juicy red grapefruit, and ripe dark berries.
  • Secondary Notes: Delicate black tea finish with a hint of cane sugar sweetness.
  • Mouthfeel: Sparkling, clean, and medium bodied with a silky texture.
  • Finish: Crisp and lingering, leaving a sweet berry aftertaste that stays on the palate.

Brewing Tips and Pairing Suggestions

To get the absolute best flavour out of your Kenya Mtaro Estate beans at home, try experimenting with these reliable extraction methods:

  • The V60 Pour Over: Use a fine paper filter and water heated to around 93 degrees Celsius. A pour over brings out the sparkling blackcurrant notes and tea like clarity.
  • The Chemex: The thicker filter paper strips away fine sediment, producing an exceptionally clean cup that highlights the delicate floral notes and sweet cane sugar finish.
  • The Aeropress: Try a two minute inverted steep with a fine grind for an intensified berry body with a lush, concentrated sweetness.
  • The Classic French Press: Steep coarsely ground beans for four full minutes before pressing. The mesh plunger allows natural coffee oils through, giving you a deeper, richer body packed with dark berry notes.
  • Delicious Pairing: Warm up a flaky butter croissant, spread a generous layer of creamy butter on it, yum, and top it with a spoonful of sweet raspberry jam. The rich butter and tart jam contrast beautifully with the juicy berry notes of the coffee.
  • Music Pairing: Put on some energetic Afro-funk or classic highlife rhythms from Fela Kuti or Ebo Taylor while your water boils. The vibrant horns and driving percussion match the bright, punchy personality of this African highland origin.

Grab a Bag on Your Next Walk Through Kensington

Whether you are heading across the bridge from downtown or out walking the dog along the river, swing by our Kensington counter. Ask us to brew you a fresh cup of Mtaro Estate on the bar, or take a fresh bag home to level up your morning coffee ritual.

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